For decades, the cotton industry has long been considered king in the Texas agriculture world. However, a shift has left it standing on shaky ground.
In the last few years — as cotton producers struggled with low market prices, high costs of business, and unpredictable weather — synthetic fibers have become more mainstream. Fast fashion outlets on the internet are offering clothes made of polyester, nylon and spandex at hard-to-beat prices. And for customers dealing with inflation and the rise of influencer culture, the clothes are flying off the virtual shelves.
“We’ve been growing this safe fiber all our lives, and we can’t seem to get any traction,” said Walt Hagood, a cotton producer outside Lubbock. “If people want cotton, it would be really helpful for them to go out and start asking the stores for it.”
The cotton industry isn’t going down without a fight, though. Producers in the Texas High Plains, where 30% of the nation’s cotton is grown, have started raising awareness about synthetic fibers and what impacts the non-biodegradable products have on the environment and consumer health.
In recent months, Plains Cotton Growers, an organization that represents cotton producers in the region, has shared infographics about synthetic fibers. Almost 70% of clothes in fast fashion are made with synthetics, mostly polyester, which is usually made from petroleum. Plastic-based fibers are not biodegradable.
Microplastics, which shed when the clothes are made, washed, and worn, are affecting more than the cotton industry. These tiny plastic particles build up in water supply sources, contaminating drinking water and polluting lakes and rivers. This is also a cause of concern for farmers, who depend on good water quality to prop up their crops.
As the competition for consumers grows, cotton farmers are hoping to gain a powerful ally in their mission against fast fashion: U.S. Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. He has already shown interest in regulating warning labels for foods containing synthetic dyes and other additives. They hope he can take a closer look at the impact the man-made fibers have on the environment and consumer health.
Kara Bishop, director of communications and public affairs for Plains Cotton Growers, has been behind much of the messaging on social media. Following the COVID-19 pandemic, Bishop saw the rise in athleisure wear and “shopping hauls” featuring TikTok influencers showing off clothes from known fast-fashion outlets. Even when she would shop, Bishop said it was hard to find clothes that were 100% cotton that were also fashionable.